This is not (entirely) in defense of the hamburger.

The amount of *%#$s I give depends largely on the project. In other words: Know your audience.

On many projects, I am willing to take the "risk" that some users might not recognize this control. I am of the opinion that the number of people who don't recognize it will only go down as it gains ubiquity. Seems inevitable. We the design community are establishing a new convention, for better or worse.

We have a 12-year-old at home. Whenever I feel unsure about something I am working on, I hand her my phone. It's amazing to see how immediately kids understand even the most complex (and, sometimes, stupid and seemingly unusable) interfaces.